How do I remove an allen bolt that's stripped AND seized?
I'm trying to replace the stator on my motorcycle (1999 Kawasaki Vulcan 800), but the bolts keeping it in place are all seized. I applied kroil and tried brute-forcing it, which worked for six of them, but now the other three are stripped as a result (stupid,…
I'm trying to replace the stator on my motorcycle (1999 Kawasaki Vulcan 800), but the bolts keeping it in place are all seized. I applied kroil and tried brute-forcing it, which worked for six of them, but now the other three are stripped as a result (stupid, I know). Now I'm left with three M6 bolts that are too worn to bite and too tight to budge. I'm considering drilling into them and then fitting a screw extractor bit onto an impact driver. Will that work? Should I just bite the bullet and take this to a shop? (I'm working with pretty basic tools — nothing like angle grinders or blowtorches. I'll have to buy anything that wouldn't be found in a basic home-repair toolbox, and my budget is tight)
Collected discussion
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Drill & Hammered Torx all the way every day. Works better than any extractor i've had.
Wait, are you suggesting drill & hammered torx as one combined idea, or two separate ones? I'm foggy on the specifics here — not historically a handyman and trying to teach myself.
This be the quickest way. Don't be a sissy when hammering an oversized torx into it. Works EVERY SINGLE TIME I do this
Looks like there is good room to try vice grips. Also you could hammer a suitable torx bit on there. Drilling with a left hand drill bit is also an option, if you drill quite deep (measure from the other bolts how far can you go) it could weaken the bolt enough for you to be able to turn it with vice grips or similar. I wouldn't fit a screw extractor on an impact driver for fear of breaking the extractor and ending up with an even worse problem.
Drive slightly bigger torx bit in the hole and then try to remove it
First try, use vice grips. After that cut slots, or use a screw extractor.
Flatten two opposite sides of the bolt head with a dremel / rotary multitool, and use an adjustable wrench to get it out
Dremel a slot and use a manual impact driver with a flat bit, the kind you smack with a hammer
Hammer an oversized Torx bit into it. Ideally, then use a whack-a-mole impact screwdriver to break it loose.
You are replacing the stator, so if you damage this one it's no problem. Drilling is fine if it's not a hardened bolt. You can drill the entire boltheads off and slip the stator off around the headless bolts. Afterward, the bolt shanks should be easy to remove. Be sure to clean up all the scattered shavings from the drilling. Smear lots of grease around to catch the shavings is a good idea, plus a shop towel. If you use heat, protect the case with some sheet metal to prevent melting the aluminum casing. Use an Oxy/Acetylene torch and get the bolthead red hot -- it expands (lengthens) when heated. A Propane or MAP gas torch will not make it hot enough. Immediately afterward, quench the bolt with cool water to prevent the bolt from shrinking back to normal length. It will turn out easily with vice grips.
My knipex cobras would take that right out
They have extractor kits at harbor Frieght if your here in the states.
Needle nose visegrips
Several methods: Reverse drill bit and extractor - while drilling, it may very well loosen the bolt and no longer need the extractor. Angle grinder cut a straight groove across the bolt so you can fit a flat head screwdriver bit on it. Then use and impact screwdriver to force it out. Smack a Torx bit onto it then drive it out (very likely to damage the torx bit).
I would not use an impact with any kind of extractor. If you have room, good vice grips are a decent bet. Try nudging it right (not turning) and then left - coax it. If you have the hammer-in extractors, I'd do that next. If you don't, try a slightly-oversized torx bit - hammer in and try to loosen.
I would try vice grips, medium to large size. Maybe strike your Allen bit in there to jar it. You could hammer on a Bolt Extractor.
As others have said I’d give vice-grips every chance to work. If there’s not enough room to get them in there, clamp it in line with the bolt and then turn the vice-grips with pliers or adjustable.
While I agree with the hammered in Torx in principle, that is a stator cover for a motorcycle and is made of aluminum. If you go this route, make sure you have the cover supported and braced or you will be purchasing another one. They crack easily. I would try heat and vise grip pliers. Heat the screw and let cool. Then heat the threaded boss and try to remove. Getting the screw first should crack any corrosion. Heating the boss would the relieve some pressure allowing the screw to be extracted. Be cautious.
With that bolt and the access you have, I think a vicegripe would work best. Put some cardboard or similar on the metal face to protect it from accidental damage.
? Just grab it with vice grips. This looks like an easy removal.
Before drilling, I’d slot it first. Try some heat and a bit of impact before twisting with a big screw stick…preferably one with a hex near the handle that you can put a wrench on it. I’ll be surprised if that doesn’t work. Especially since it appears you have the case on a bench and able to be strapped/secured so you don’t need three hands
Vampliers or Engineer pliers with the curved grip edge
You guys can sacrifice me all you want but I don’t like Kroil oil I do not think it works any better then knock off penetrating oils even WD-40 works better and is way way cheaper
Use E-Z Outs. Dont booger up the head with vise grips or plyers that wont fit in that space anyway.