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Smoothing a 4"x4" rouge concrete patch
I have a concrete patio that has a rough spot, about 4"x4". It is raised about 1" and bumpy and enough to potentially trip someone. I'd like to smooth it out. Should I Sand by hand with diamond sandpaper Orbital sander with high grit Angle grinder Something…
I have a concrete patio that has a rough spot, about 4"x4". It is raised about 1" and bumpy and enough to potentially trip someone. I'd like to smooth it out. Should I Sand by hand with diamond sandpaper Orbital sander with high grit Angle grinder Something else entirely? I'd like to avoid buying a tool for just this purpose.
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An angle grinder with a diamond grinding cup wheel on it. I used a 7" one to cut down a concrete floor that was left too high around a drain and taper the slope properly. Smaller ones will work, but will be harder to keep even. It will grind right through the concrete and aggregate, so be aware it will never look like the concrete around it. It's very dusty work. You can buy a dust shroud to hook to a shop vac, but still wear a respirator with dust cartridges, not just a mask. Silicosis is nothing to mess with.
Angle grinder's the way to go, just be ready for the whole patio to look like a ghost town if the dust catches any breeze. Renting one from a hardware store is like 15 bucks for a few hours, so you don't have to buy a tool you'll use once. Might be worth wetting the patch down as you go, keeps the silica cloud from floating over to the neighbor's barbecue.
If I'm working outside, would the respirator be fine or should I still use a shroud?
The respirator will be fine, but you will be covered in dust.
The angle grinder will be the fastest way to remove the lip on a concrete patch. Get a heavy duty grinding wheel and a good dust mask, don't forget the eye protection either.
Thinking more about the depth you need to cut, the angle grinder is good for the finish, but you will want to start by chipping out all you can to get near final level. You will not need the precision that I did, but here's some pictures of how I made sure the depth was even on my project. I made a jig to keep the slope that I wanted, then cut lines in the floor with a masonry blade in my beater skill saw. Since the diameter of the blade gets smaller as you cut, I did a cross first, then adjusted the depth and did another cross at 45 degrees from the first, repeating until I had plenty of guide cuts. Then I chipped out the excess that I could with a cold chisel before switching to the grinder. When I switched to the grinder I used the depth lines to be sure I wasn't taking too much off in any one spot. Even with the shop vac pulling off most of the dust, everything in the room was coated. If you are outside, it will be better, but without a shop vac, everything within 30' will be coated. It's abrasive stuff, so protect anything mechanical or anything with a nice finish. https://imgur.com/a/SUvDS4O